Author Archive


The Modern Pantry Own-Label Wines


To The Modern Pantry in London’s Clerkenwell where owner, the chef Anna Hansen, has introduced two own-label wines.

Unsurprisingly, for a restaurant with New Zealand roots, the wines are a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and a Pinot Noir.

What is surprising, to me at least, is that these aren’t the house wines. (more…)

How A Wine Rack Helped Restore My Writing Mojo


Dear Rich

I’m sorry. Really, really, REALLY sorry.

You sent me a lovely wine rack from Black Country Metalworks to review back in January. And here we are, at the tail end of June and I haven’t posted anything yet.

You see, I was full of great ideas back in January. I could have just written a quick piece about the rack. But I had bigger ideas. Oh yes. Ideas about a wide-ranging feature on wine storage, where I’d skillfully weave in a review of your wine rack. Blimey, I’m even boring myself just thinking about that post. (more…)

The Don of Chilean Cabernet


If you ever get the opportunity to visit the vineyard where Concha Y Toro’s flagship Don Melchor wine starts its life, you are likely to find yourself in a ditch. An actual ditch, dug just so that you can see, close up, the composition of volcanic stony soil in which the vines struggle to survive. Beats being handed a stone or rock by a winemaker, as is so often the case. (more…)

Wine Duty: Enough Is Enough


Sometimes, being a wine lover feels like you’ve made a pact with the Devil.

You’re labelled a “snob” for turning down a glass of cheap wine.

You’re branded a binge drinker because you dare to have a glass or two on a regular basis.

If you drink wine in the week, it must be a coping mechanism – especially if you’re a woman. And obviously, you have no control.

Rarely is it mentioned that many of us like wine for its taste and its alchemy with food – not for its alcohol levels.

Now, it looks like the UK’s wine lovers are about to get punished again. (more…)

And The BAFTA Goes To…


When Edgar Sampson wrote Stompin’ At The Savoy, I doubt he had in mind a woman clomping around in vertiginous heels, in serious danger of tripping over her £1000 floor length dress and smashing the glass of Champagne in her hand.

Yet here I was, tottering clumsily around the Savoy Hotel in the Strand, experiencing what it was like to be a EE British Academy Film Awards nominee getting ready for the big night.

You have to be good in heels, for a start. Or at least use your acting skills to pretend you are. And you would have arranged your designer dress weeks before, instead of selecting the one that fitted, straight off the rail. (more…)

What Wine, What Film 2014


Matching wine with food? That’s SO old school. Apparently.

Now, it’s all about pairing it with music, art, books and (in my case) film.

So, for this year’s EE British Academy Film Awards best picture nominations, here are my suggestions for what wine goes with what film… (more…)

The Bicycle Diary


I thought someone was joking when they said that the bikes were waiting for us at Cono Sur.

But, as we rolled up the driveway to the Santa Elisa estate in Chile’s Colchagua Valley, there they were – a row of black, slightly careworn cycles.

I should have clicked, given that Cono Sur’s entry level range of wine is called Bicicleta. (more…)

Keep Carmenere And Carry On


You could call the arrival of Carmenere in Chile a happy accident.

It was Merlot the Chileans were after, back in the day. Unbeknown to them, they got Carmenere vines as well. (more…)

On Sabres And Champagne


So, Mr. SipSwoosh, on a business trip to DC, fancies a glass of fizz in his hotel.

He updates his Facebook page saying the barman couldn’t open the bottle, so now he’s called the sushi chef.

“Send for the wife with her sword!” quips a friend. For I can now open a bottle of Champagne with a sabre. (more…)

Sweet Dreams Are Made This


It’s late morning on a grey, overcast day and there’s a solitary man sitting between a row of vines near the Hungarian town of Tokaj.

He’s checking every grape and picking only those with the right amount of desiccation and “noble” rot, (botrytis cinerea).

It’s a lengthy, painstaking job that can take weeks of passing up and down the vineyard for those perfect grapes – or aszú berries, as they become known (and first mentioned in the 16th century). (more…)