English Wine Laid Bare


Last year, I declared that English wine had come a long way.

I may have been a bit premature.

Hot on the heels of sampling some fabulous sparklers at an English Wine Producers trade event, came a short, sharp dose of reality – tasting more than 40 English wines blind. Stripped of labels, information about the producers, stories behind the wines and other influencing factors, there was nowhere to hide.

Holding Out For A Hero

The tasting was the English wine heat of Naked Wines’ Zero to Hero contest. The aim is to find “the world’s most talented yet unknown winemakers.” The winner of each heat (there are six in total) gets a listing worth £50,000 with Naked Wines. At the end of this year, an overall winner will be chosen, receiving a further £300,000 investment.

Line of disguised bottles ready for some English wine tasting

To make the selection, Naked Wines has recruited consumers as judges.

Based on the people I met at the English wine heat, these tend be highly engaged Naked Wine customers, who love sharing the experiences of the wines they buy on Naked’s website.

Here was another reality check.

Despite the growing presence of English wine on supermarket shelves, and a significant amount of media coverage in the past 12 months, I reckon most British wine drinkers have yet to taste a drop of the stuff. Only one person on my table (besides me) had tried English wine before. All he could tell me was that it was made from Champagne grapes.

As someone who has bought and drunk a fair bit of English wine – comparatively speaking – it was fascinating to see it through the eyes, and palates, of my fellow tasters.

Aeriel view of the Vintners Hall, London

First up, in the grand surroundings of the Vinters’ Hall in London. were 14 sparking wines. After a bit of wincing around the table came some nods of appreciation, and mutters of “not bad” and “quite good”.

Except for the one that smelt of farts. (No, dear pourer, that’s not “unique” – that’s a fault.) And the one that was actually Moët Brut Imperial. Nope, still not a fan.

The real shocker came with the still wines.

Looking at my scores, I gave no or low marks to a lot. An awful lot. I wasn’t generous with the comments either.

“Harsh”, “odd”, “smells bad”, “couldn’t drink”, “commute-home armpit” – and one, donated from across the table, “cat’s spray”.

White, red and rosé, it was not pretty and left me feeling like this Grinling Gibbons carving on the wall.

Carving in the Vintners Hall, London

There were exceptions of course, which I will come to. They were few and far between though. In the rush to jump on the English wine bandwagon, it seems we are turning out some stinkers.

It’s A Heartache

They were not all the work of brand new wine producers.

Despite being informed at the event that the wines were unlisted, this meant unlisted at a supermarket. A number of the wines are available via distributors who sell wine to independent shops. To be fair, though, not all independent stores will stock English wines because of price and unfamiliarity.

A Stopham Estate Pinot Blanc at £13.99 is just not shifting at my local independent. It was one of the wines at the event. Luckily, I still liked it when I didn’t know what it was. Sadly, it didn’t get picked as the winner.

What did, by a significant margin, was Bolney Estate’s Cuvée Rosé Brut 2009, a light, summery punnet of red berries, (though I preferred the raspberries and cream of a wine that came shortly after, which I later discovered was a Jenkyn Place Rosé 2008).

the three top picks in the Zero to Hero English wine tasting contest

The two runners up included my favourite of the day, Furleigh Estate Classic Cuvée 2009 (nice depth with nutty, biscuity complexity “like Champagne” say my notes), and a still white, Element 20 by Litmus Wines.

Now, if this contest had been about investing in a wine that shows a lot of potential, this would have been my top choice. Some light oaking gave structure to this lean, racy, gently aromatic wine. I just felt it was a little style over substance and couldn’t see it flying into the online baskets of Naked customers at this stage.

Afterwards, I found out that this is the first vintage of Element 20, a blend of Bacchus and Chardonnay. So, early days (though a very experienced team behind it, I should add). I also found out that it retails for around £18, at places like The Sampler. This would have made it a tough sell on Naked, I think.

The Bolney Rosé Brut is now on Naked’s Marketplace for £21 per bottle (a discount) if you buy three. It’s not moving very quickly and, while there are some very positive comments, there are also inevitable complaints about price (and some good arguments back too!)

While I applaud Naked for including English wine in the Zero to Hero contest, the cost of  many English wine continues to be an issue for many consumers. And, going by this event, so does the quality of the still wines. While I am optimistic that the latter will change over time, I can’t be confident about the former, meaning that many English wines may stay niche for the majority of wine drinkers.

Footnote:

Of course, there is some well-priced, really good still English wine out there. Here are some of my favourites – none of which were part of the Naked tasting I should add.

Biddenden Gribble Bridge Ortega Dry £9.74 direct from the vineyard, £10 from The Wine Pantry – off-dry but not in any way sweet.

– Nutbourne Sussex Reserve – £113 if you buy a case from the vineyard or £10.50 from The Wine Pantry – aromatic and rounded, Mr. SipSwooshSpit was smitten on first sip.

Camel Valley Atlantic Dry – £10.76 per bottle if you buy a case, £11.95 otherwise, direct from the vineyard. (I love their Bacchus and their Darnibole Bacchus too, but they cost more). The perfect wine for a late summer lunch by a British beach. I know because I’ve done it.

Three Choirs English House Medium Dry – currently on offer at Waitrose online for £6.16 in a mixed box of 12 (until May 29th), a round, fruity, easy-drinking wine that is perfect for picnics.

All of my choices are white. I’ve yet to try a red where quality matches price. And I think rosé sparkling knocks the spots off the still versions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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4 Responses to “English Wine Laid Bare”
  1. 05.14.2012

    There really were some shocking wines in the line up; embarrassing I would say for some of the producers. There were a few I’d be happy to drink I should add. I did spot my local vineyard in the lineup (Brightwell) and I am sure my highly marked red was from them… just need to get the full list from Naked Wines to verify.

  2. 05.14.2012

    Naked declined to share a full final list with me – only the producers who participated. They gave me the names of a couple I was positive about. One was Jenkyn Place Brut 08 which I had tasted and liked both here and at the EWP tasting. I saw the JP Rosé label at the event.

  3. Katharine O'Callaghan
    05.15.2012

    Really glad you liked the Jenkyn Place Rosé 2008. The winemaker, Dermot Sugrue, is a talented guy and told me at the EWP tasting that he set out to make a Rosé with more depth and complexity than usual and I think he achieved this.

    Sorry you were disappointed with some of the still wines but it’s still early days for the industry, with a lot of producers experimenting to find out which varieties and blends work best. I thought there were some really good examples of still wines at the EWP tasting – Chapel Down and Camel Valley particularly stood out for me.

    I agree that the Litmus Elements 20 Bacchus/Chardonnay (made by John Worontschak and Sam Harrop MW at Denbies) really stood out in the crowd – such an unusual blend but it worked, although could have done with a little less time in barrel for me. Then again, I’m a hard-core Sauvignon lover which is why I love Bacchus so much. For me, it has the most potential here in the UK.

  4. 05.15.2012

    Thanks for your comments Katharine. Agree on the Litmus – if they tone that down, it has the potential to be very good. I also liked the Jenkyn Place Brut (it was my 3rd top after the JP rose and the Furleigh).

    Attending the EWP and drinking still wine (and sparkling) from top producers, I’ve seen how good it can be. The Naked event showed how below this, it is still a very mixed bag.


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