A Leaf-Kicking Wine
What’s the best way to describe a wine?
It seems there are now two schools of thought.
On the one hand is the prescriptive school: listing aromas and flavours plus tannins, acid, length etc. Anyone who’s studied with the Wine & Spirit Educational Trust (WSET) is taught a “systematic approach” along these lines.
On the other hand, there are those who like to describe the experience of the wine. For example, likening the drinking of a flinty Sancerre to dipping your toes in a clear, cool stream on a hot, sunny day.
Makes it sound very enticing. And a list of descriptors can be utterly, utterly dull.
I don’t think there’s a right or a wrong – though I tend to veer on the side of descriptors because I want to know what something tastes like.
However, the other day I tasted some Ampelomeryx 2009 from Domaine de Pellehaut in Gascony – a blend of Gros and Petit Manseng, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
An image immediately popped into my head: of kicking a pile of russet and golden leaves in the bright sunshine of early autumn day – and the glorious fug of spice that results.
A brilliant end of summer – or perhaps Indian Summer – wine with a lovely round mouthfeel.
For those who like flavour descriptors: orchard and citrus fruits, nutmeg and ginger.
I bought my bottle from Swig for £12.50
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